City trip - Naples and the Amalfi Coast 05/2024
Foreword
Next Wednesday, I'll be getting back on the plane and flying south. More precisely to Naples, the capital of the Campania region with its beautiful Amalfi Coast.
My last visit to "Bella Italia" was quite a while ago, but I never forget how unique Italian food tastes. Pizza, pasta, sweet pastries, delicious ice cream or simply enjoying an Italian espresso in a street café is something I particularly look forward to. But I also love the ease with which Italians let their temperament drive them.
There is Italy and then there is Naples, or so I've been told. Does the southern Italian city have its own character and is it a world of its own?
Naples is known for its history, which goes back to ancient Greece and Spain. But the colorful, lively Amalfi Coast has also appealed to me photographically for years.
Anyone who knows me knows that I can't do without diving and so I'll be diving down into the Gulf of Naples and who knows what I'll discover there. Because every diving spot is unique and fascinating at the same time. I've read that there are also supposed to be historical works of art down there. I am curious.
Journey
After work, I grabbed my suitcase and photo rucksack, went to the station and took the S-Bahn to the airport. There I checked in my suitcase and went through security. Everything went smoothly and I arrived at my gate without any stress.
Boarding also began on time. But the plane was fully booked and so we had to check in our hand luggage or stow it under the seats. As it was a bit slow, the pilot made an announcement that we had to hurry up a bit as the airport in Naples would close at 11pm and our arrival time, if we took off on time, would be 10.50pm. Everyone joined in and we took off 3 minutes earlier than planned. I had never experienced that before with Lufthansa.
We flew over Austria and the Alps towards Italy. I kept looking out of the window to see the currently active volcano 'Vesuvius', but apart from the lights of towns and streets, nothing was shining. We touched down at 22:25. The pilot had really stepped on the gas!
After collecting my suitcase, I looked outside for the shuttle bus to the city centre and quickly found the bus stop. I bought the ticket directly from the driver for €5.
The journey to the main railway station took just under a quarter of an hour. From there, it was another five minutes to my accommodation 'Anna's Family' https://bnbhotelnapoli.com/annas-family-beb-napoli-centro/. An elderly gentleman explained everything to me in Italian and I had to sign a time list for breakfast. Unfortunately, everything was full by 8.30 a.m., so I was able to sleep in and start my first day in comfort.
1 day Naples
I received a very friendly welcome at breakfast. The buffet was simple, but perfectly adequate. Homemade cakes, croissants, some bread, sausage, cheese, fruit and muesli. Plus, of course, an Italian coffee.
Strengthened, I left the accommodation and strolled along the streets. There was a flea and food market in Piazza Nolana. Of course I liked it and watched the Italians haggling.
There are many works of graffiti art in Naples, and I found a very famous one by the well-known Banksy: 'Madonna with the gun'. However, it was framed behind glass and therefore protected.
I continued walking through the 'Centro Storico' neighbourhood and on the way to the 'Dante' district, I also passed the two streets 'Spaccanaploi', literally 'Crack of Naples' and the cot street 'Via San Gregory Armen'. Here you can watch the nativity scene makers or buy figures. A little further on, I was also able to experience the hustle and bustle of the historic 'Mercato di Porta Solana' market.
Naples is of course also known for its many 'piazzas'. On the 'Piazza Dante' with its 'Port' Alba' is the unofficial entrance to the "Centro Storico". The archway was built in 1625 and used to be decorated with three coats of arms. It is very busy and I was told that all hell breaks loose there in the evening. I actually wanted to visit the metro station there, as it is highly recommended, but I didn't want to buy a ticket for it. Maybe I'll take the Italian metro again in the next few days and just get off there.
I then walked to the 'Quartieri Spagnoli'. This 16th century neighbourhood was built by the Spanish viceroy Pedro Alvarez de Toledo y Zuniga for his troops. At first glance, it looks like a poor neighbourhood, but it is one of the livelier ones in the city. And there was a lot going on there and I found plenty of photo opportunities.
At lunchtime, I found a small Italian restaurant and ate tomato and mozzarella. Afterwards I visited the 'Galleria Umberto', which unfortunately is currently partly a building site. In the afternoon, I simply strolled through the alleyways and neighbourhoods and enjoyed the Italian flair.
Back at my accommodation, I asked a member of staff which train ticket I needed to visit various places on the Amalfi Coast. She explained to me that I would only be able to get to two places by train and would then have to continue by bus, but recommended that I go to the main railway station, get information there and find out the departure times.
After a break, I accepted the recommendation and made my way to the station. It took me a while to find the right ticket office, as the main station is very large and there are various companies/providers responsible for the different train journeys. But after asking around a bit, I found the right one, made enquiries, asked for the timetable and then set off back into the Italian hustle and bustle. In the 'Centro Storico' I had an Italian dinner and treated myself to a Limoncello Spritz.
Tomorrow it's time for history and the Amalfi Coast.
Day 2 Ancient Pompeii and a bit of the Amalfi Coast
This morning I was able to have breakfast earlier, so I was already at the train station at 7.30am to buy my ticket to Pompeii. I paid about €3 for it. The train departed from platform 1 on time at 8.07am. It chugged along the coast, sometimes through tunnels, until we arrived after just under 40 minutes. From the station, it's just a few minutes to the entrance to the excavated city. But the gates were still locked and didn't open until 9am. I paid €18 and was one of the first to enter, so I had a few places to myself, including the 'Foro' (forum), which used to be the main square of Pompeii, houses, villas, temples and alleyways of the ancient city, which was perfect for taking photos. I was fascinated by the great city with its huge marble temples, statues and villas and what a magnificent state it was in! Simply amazing. Unfortunately, the amphitheatre and other major sights were surrounded by scaffolding, so there are no photos of them.
When I passed the 'Foro' again after my tour, all hell was breaking loose there. I can only advise you to explore the peripheral areas and really get there before 9 a.m., then you will have some places to yourself.
Back at the station, I bought two more train tickets, to Sorrento and back to Naples. I paid €7.60 for both. The journey to Sorrento took another 50 minutes.
There I actually wanted to continue by bus to Postiano and Amalfi, but that didn't work out. The queue at the bus and ticket counter was too long. I was also told that all the tickets for today had already been sold. We wanted to take a taxi with a few others, but they charged €25 per person instead of just under €2 for the bus ticket. It wasn't worth it to me to sit in the car for another two hours and not know how and whether I would get back.
So I decided to explore Sorrento, the town by the sea, which is also part of the Amalfi Coast but belongs 100% to the Sorrento peninsula.
The old town is beautiful, there are various small alleyways, but unfortunately also a lot of tourists. I immediately noticed that everything revolved around lemons, whether it was deco, food or drinks. Lemons everywhere. Unfortunately, it started to rain, but I took advantage of the break in the rain to have lunch and ordered 'Spagetti alla "Merano" (spaghetti with fried courgette and cheese). And I have to say: it was a culinary delight.
Afterwards, I strolled through the little alleyways and wanted to go down to the harbour, but when I saw the view, that was enough for me, because dark rain clouds were coming again. So I decided to do a bit of shopping, treated myself to a cappuccino and checked the timetable. Luckily I got to the station in good time, because the train was packed when it left. So here's my tip: get there 10 minutes early and you'll get a seat.
Back in Naples, I enquired about another train route as I'm going diving tomorrow and bought my tickets for tomorrow. 1.80 € per journey.
At my accommodation, I adjusted my diving gear, downloaded my photos to the external hard drive and relaxed a little.
I ended the evening in an Italian restaurant again.
Day 3 It always turns out differently than you think
Full of anticipation, I set off by public transport to Pozzoli, which is located a little north of the coast. You have to be very careful, as there are different providers and different tickets. What's more, there are several train stations in the same place, but I found the right one and travelled about 40 minutes with one change. I got off at the 'Arno Felice' stop and walked another 400 metres through the town until I arrived at the diving school, much too early of course. So I decided to have a cappuccino next door and enjoy the sea for a while. It was warm but windy.
Back at the diving centre https://www.centrosubcampiflegrei.it, I was greeted in a friendly manner and shown where I could change. They then gave me a diving suit and my equipment, which I assembled. Then we had to wait for the other divers and those returning from the morning. But about three quarters of an hour before the start of the dive, it started to rain, which is not really a reason to cancel the dive. But the sea was choppy, so the exchange school decided to cancel the dive to the archaeological underwater park. So the diving was literally 'cancelled'. I accepted it, but was also disappointed because half the day was already gone. I walked back to the train station in the rain and travelled back to Naples.
I changed into something dry at my accommodation, took my camera and made my way to the harbour. I wanted to enquire about an excursion for tomorrow and buy the tickets. There were only two stops and I quickly found the ticket office. I paid €40 for the return journey to the island of Procida.
I then strolled through the 'Quartieri Spangnoli' neighbourhood.
When my stomach made itself felt, I looked for a pizzeria. Of course, there is one on every corner here, but none that appealed to me. At some point in a small side street I came across the restaurant 'Ntretella' https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/naples/2019/naples-pizzeria-ntretella/. I ordered a glass of wine, water and of course the famous 'Pizza Napoli'. I have to say, I've never had such a delicious pizza. It was simply amazing. I only paid €12 for everything (including the cutlery), even though the pizzeria has been awarded a Michelin star several times.
Sated, I strolled through more alleyways until I got back to Piazza Dante. I actually wanted to have a 'Limencello Spritz' there, but I couldn't find a cosy spot, so I walked to my accommodation. On the way there, I found a free spot on a small corner and finished off the evening.
Day 4 Procida, the colourful pearl in the Gulf of Naples and the nightlife of Naples
The ferry left on time at 8.30 a.m. and travelled through the Gulf of Naples in 35 minutes until it docked at the harbour of Procida.
The small island was long overshadowed by Capri or Ischia. But since 2022, it has been named Italy's Capital of Culture - the first island ever to do so. And I quickly realised why. The first colourful little houses right by the harbour, with a few fishing boats in front of them. And sunshine!
The island is also famous for its lemons. There are plenty of them, large, small, sweet and sour. Of course, there were also many dishes in all variations with the yellow fruit.
I strolled towards the centre and stopped at a small street café because I read 'Coffee lemon'. I asked how it was made and when two young women explained it to me, I ordered one for €2. They served a creamy espresso with a slice of lemon and a glass of water. You drink it like a tequila. And I was pleasantly surprised, it tasted very good.
On foot, I turned right and walked up the small 'main street'. At some point, I turned left until I arrived at a small square. From here I already had a great view of the bay, the yellow church and the colourful little houses all around. But I hadn't had enough and walked even higher until I reached the first viewpoint, the Belvedere Corricella. Of course, I took a few nice pictures from different perspectives. When I was satisfied, I went further up to the second viewpoint 'Panoramica sulla Corricella'. And yes, that was quite a view. Of the bay, the small fishing boats and the colourful row of houses. Just like in a picture book: wonderfully picturesque.
Once I had my photos in the box, I made my way down to the colourful 'Marina di Corricella' bay. The restaurants were just about to open. Fortunately, there were only a few tourists at this time of day. At the other end, I climbed the stairs and strolled through the small village until I arrived at the famous pasticceria 'Antica Pasticceria Cascone', where I tried the island's sweet speciality 'Lingua di Procida'. This is a dessert made from puff pastry and a lemon cream. I can only recommend it, even if it is a calorie bomb :-)
As the village is not particularly large, I was quickly back on the harbour promenade. I stopped at a small take-away shop called 'ilgazebo' https://www.instagram.com/ilgazeboprocida/?hl=de and saw lemon pesto for sale on a table. Maria Rosaria, the owner's wife, explained a lot about the island, the pesto and other dishes to me in German. She definitely recommended that I try a lemon juice from her. As I was still full from the dessert, I told her that I would come back later and try it. No sooner said than done, after taking another little tour of the village, I returned just in time for the rain.
As it is only a take-away shop, there were only two small bar tables with bar stools. I took a seat and Maria brought me the freshly prepared lemon salad. This consists of sweet lemons, olive oil, garlic, mint and salt and pepper. Thumbs up here too, it was stunningly delicious.
We chatted for a while and when I wanted to pay, her husband said that I was invited. The whole crew was so friendly and lovely that I found it hard to leave. But they invited me to come back and made it even tastier with a cookery course. They also gave me a few restaurant tips for tonight and tomorrow lunchtime.
The ferry left on time again. Despite the rain and some swell, I didn't feel sick. At the harbour in Naples, I got on the metro and travelled back to my accommodation.
Here I took a short break before ending my last evening in Bella Italia and Naples.
Day 5 - Metro sightseeing and departure
As my flight back to Munich wasn't until the early evening, I used the morning to go on a metro sightseeing tour, as the art underground is said to be one of the most beautiful metros in Europe. And the metro is not expensive either. 1,50 € per journey, or 5,40 € for a whole day.
First on the agenda was of course the "Garibaldi" metro stop, as it is almost on the doorstep of my accommodation. The whole square was designed by the French architect Dominque Perrault. To do this, they had to lower the piazza and then cover this lower part with cool roof structures reminiscent of an abstract forest. To get to the metro, free-hanging escalators descend over 30 meters. You think, where is the end here?
Once I arrived at the bottom, I took line 1 one stop further and got off at the "Duomo" stop. There were colorful diamonds sparkling from the walls everywhere, it was like being in a disco as the colors were constantly changing. The highlight, a dome made of Corten steel and glass, was unfortunately outside and fenced in.
So I continued on to the next stop, "Universitá". This underworld is overwhelmingly pop and brightly colored, created by Karim Rashid, an American designer. The flooring is designed with fine lines and pulsating endless loops. On the floors and staircases, green meets pink or blue meets orange - I had never seen such a colorful station before.
The next stop was the "Municipio" metro station, which also leads to the port. Everything there was very plain, but also somehow interesting.
But then I dived into the underwater world, at least a little, because at the "Toledo" metro station I walked along a corridor where water could be seen on screens to the right and left. This station is actually below sea level. But the escalator tunnel was gigantic, small tiles on the walls, patterns of waves, art that I had never seen before. At the top, there were various mosaic pictures on the walls.
The last stop was called "Dante". There were also mosaic pictures on the walls and a long wall with shoes.
I have to admit, the metro world of Naples is truly unique. As the sun was shining, I decided to drive a little further up the mountain to see Naples from above. As the sun was shining, I decided to drive a little further up the mountain to see Naples from above. The view from there is really beautiful. From there you really get a beautiful view.
I walked back through the 'Chiaia' neighbourhood and discovered a small villa with two particularly beautiful staircases. Unfortunately, photography was only allowed from below, but I found a few nice perspectives.
Before I drove back to my accommodation to collect my luggage, I enjoyed one last cappuccino and a Napoli pizza.
From a distance, I could already see a long queue of people at the airport shuttle stop. But the cab drivers know how to make money. They took people out of the queue and offered them a ride to the airport for €5, the same price as a shuttle bus ride. I joined a group of six and took a comfortable cab ride to the airport.
Now it's time to say goodbye to beautiful Naples!
Recommended contact details:
Annas's family: https://bnbhotelnapoli.com/annas-family-beb-napoli-centro/
Pizzaria: https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/naples/2019/naples-pizzeria-ntretella/
Procida "Take away": https://www.instagram.com/ilgazeboprocida/?hl=de