Madagascar - in the land of the lemurs 08/2024

07/08/2024

Foreword

Madagascar, also known as the "eighth continent", is the second largest island state in the world after Indonesia. The island off the south-west coast of Africa is relatively large. It is 1.5 times the size of Germany!

The island is said to be multifaceted and unique, with a unique flora and fauna - 70% of Madagascar's fauna lives only here. In particular, various species of lemur can only be found on Madagascar, as well as several species of chameleon that can only be found on this island. And of course these imposing, pot-bellied trees: baobabs. Oh, and then there are the smaller islands with their beautiful reefs and marvellous underwater world. August is supposed to be the peak season for humpback whales. Maybe I'll be lucky this time and get them under and above the water in front of my lens.

And: Who else knows that funny, animated Disney film in which lemurs dance to "I like to move it, move it"? Let's see if I can feel that feeling and dance to it ;-)

Be curious when I embark on a new adventure on African soil and accompany me on all these new discoveries.

And who knows: maybe I'll find the place where the pepper grows...

Journey

I made my way to the S-Bahn on foot in the rain and warm temperatures. It arrived on time. It arrived on time, but then it kept stopping unscheduled until the last three stations were suddenly cancelled. So I had to get off and wait for the next S-Bahn, which arrived another 20 minutes late and finally left for the airport. As I left early enough, I stayed relaxed and still arrived on time. When I arrived at the check-in desk, the ladies told me that they were just starting their break. So I stood in front of an empty check-in desk and had to wait. When it was finally my turn, I was told that my chosen seat was faulty, but that I would still get a window seat. I was told to leave my suitcase at the baggage carousel as it was out of order. A fairly long queue had already formed there. When I had finally dropped off my suitcase, I made my way to the security checkpoint. But how could it be otherwise, of course they pulled me out and took a swab for explosives. When all that was finally done, I went to the lounge and was told that boarding would start 50 minutes later... I thought, what's next? Fortunately, there was no further bad news or delays. So at least I was able to spend the delay relaxing in the lounge, talking to my family on the phone and enjoying my meal.

I left Munich at sunset and flew to Istanbul. The service was good and the time flew by.

Once there, I first checked which gate my next flight was departing from. When I saw that it was near the lounge and that boarding was just under 70 minutes away, I went there, drank a gin and tonic and put my feet up.

Boarding began on time and so I took my seat in Business Class and was of course once again overwhelmed by how big the seats are. I was immediately given a welcome drink and the menu, which I found slightly overwhelming. During the flight I also came into contact with my seat neighbour, Stephen from San Francisco. This was his third time flying to Madagascar. The food was served on a tray and with proper crockery and tasted excellent. When I got ready for bed, my seat was converted into a bed and I was able to sleep very well above the clouds.

Around midday we reached Mauritius, where we landed and two hours later we were finally in Madagascar.

Approach to Mauritius

I was issued the visa straight away and so I had another stamp in my passport. There was a sheepdog at the baggage carousel sniffing the luggage.

Jimmy from MoraTravel https://moratravel.com, my guide and driver for the next few days, was already waiting for me outside. He drove me through the capital Antananarivo, which the Madagascans only call "TANA", to my hotel "Hotel restaurant Niaouly" https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=Hotel+restaurant+Niaouly&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8. Once there, I was looking forward to a shower, relaxed in my room and repacked a bit so that I had everything I needed in my rucksack for tomorrow.

In the evening I visited a restaurant near the hotel and fell into bed exhausted and tired.

Tomorrow I'm off towards the east coast.

Day 1 Streetlife and wildlife

Jimmy picked me up shortly after 7 a.m. and we left Tana heading east, past rice terraces, granite rocks and through smaller villages. Jimmy had to keep stopping for me so that I could take photos. The Madagascans were happy when I asked them if I could take their photo. So both sides had fun. Unfortunately, I also saw a lot of poverty again. Jimmy also taught me a few words in Malagasy and told me that there are 18 different tribes in Madagascar.

After almost 100 kilometres in three and a half hours, we took a break. Yes, the roads are not in the best condition, so the journey took longer than it would have done here in Germany.

We arrived in Andasibe around midday. I checked in, had lunch and then the first of today's three tours started. Jimmy took me to the Voimma Reserve. Flohr was already waiting for me there. She would be my guide for the next three days.

Right at the beginning I saw a common brown lemur sitting high up in a tree.

Then we continued our search for the familiar "indras". But they were playing "cat and mouse" with us, so we couldn't look left and right or for other animals. However, Flohr then discovered a male "Calluma parsonii" in the tree, which was even active and climbing from one branch to another. At some point, after running back and forth for ages, we found a couple of indris, two mothers with babies high up in the trees.

After just under two and a half hours, we met up with Jimmy again and he drove us to the Mitsinjo Reserve. An additional guide was already waiting here to take us to another lemur species, the "Diademed sifaka".

However, as it was already getting dark, I had to hurry a bit to get some nice photos. We drove back through the thicket and Flohr spotted a really well camouflaged gecko called the "Moussy leaf tailed gecko" at the side of the road. Satisfied, we drove back to our accommodation. Here Jimmy organised my packed lunch for tomorrow. I pre-ordered something for dinner and swapped my equipment, as there was still a night walk on the programme, which took place by the roadside.

Flohr explained to me that the animals like to come to the roads at night as they are still warmed up by the sun. It is currently winter here in Madagascar, i.e. 23-25 degrees during the day, but in the evening and at night it cools down to 12 degrees. I was amazed at how busy it was here. At first we were able to look for animals in peace and found a small frog. But when we found the little lemur, I couldn't stand it for long as about 15 people came along and were extremely loud and annoyed the animal. I couldn't stand watching that and we left the place. A little further on, Flohr even saw the smallest chameleon in the world. It is about as "big" as my little finger. A group noticed it and came running back. I lost interest in the rest of the night walk and we went to the car and Jimmy drove us back. I had dinner, backed up my photos and fell into bed after a successful day.

Day 2 - The lemurs are off.

When everything was still asleep, Jimmy and I met up and drove to pick up Flohr. Then we drove 45 kilometres to Andasibe-Mantadia National Park. But that was a real challenge for me, because the road wasn't really a road and so it took us almost two hours to get to the entrance, even without stopping. But instead of leaving on time at 7 a.m., I needed another 20 minutes because I felt really sick on the journey. Once my body had recovered, I followed Flohr into the jungle forest. We hurried up to a viewpoint. Once there, however, I was a little disappointed as there wasn't much to see. I could only see the beautiful panorama through a small gap. I also had breakfast up there and listened to the indris and other lemurs.

After refreshments, we walked through the thicket looking for lemurs and other animals. But we simply found nothing. After more than three and a half hours and 10 kilometres, we turned around and walked back to the exit. Jimmy was already waiting for us there. A little disappointed, we drove back and stopped at a lemur island about an hour later. I should have better luck here. Flohr and Jimmy stayed in the car and Daniel, a guide who knows his way around the island, drove me to the other side. When we got there, we immediately encountered the first curious lemurs.

I was able to see, observe and photograph a total of four different species, but then it started to rain and we wanted to go back by boat. Suddenly Daniel saw another small frog, which I of course photographed with my macro lens.

We returned to Andasibe in the early afternoon and I relaxed in my room. Afterwards, I walked around the town and stopped off at a restaurant.

Day 3 In the rainforest

After breakfast, Jimmy drove me to the entrance to Analamazaotra National Park. Flohr was already waiting for me here in the rain.

We were the first to enter the rainforest. Right at the start, I saw a kingfisher, which I photographed again and again. A little further on, Flohr showed me the roosting place of a small owl called "Shops owl". It had its eyes open from time to time, probably out of curiosity to see who was photographing it.

We also searched the leaves for frogs. We didn't find any at first. On the way through the rainforest, we also kept an eye out for snakes and other camelids. But the search was almost unsuccessful, although we did manage to spot two small frogs. As the rain subsided and the sun fought its way through, a family of "diamond sifakas" came by and hopped from tree to tree. Unfortunately, the light was only partially good, so I didn't get any really good photos, but sometimes it's enough just to watch the animals. On the way back, we also came across a small family of "Indris". A mother and her approximately three-month-old baby sat a little higher up in the tree, but the baby showed itself from time to time. After more than three and a half hours through the Analamazaotra National Park, we made our way back and saw another "Blue Coua". However, it was very shy and quickly disappeared.

Jimmy was already waiting for me at the exit and drove me back to my accommodation. Here I relaxed a little and we met up again for lunch.

After lunch, we drove back to the entrance of Analamazaotra National Park because Flohr really wanted to go with me to look for the snakes and other camelids. When we arrived, she had already found the first chamelion.

The afternoon walk was virtually unsuccessful, apart from two geckos and another family of diamondback sifakas, we saw no other animals. She explained to me that when it rains and it's winter here, the snakes rarely come out. So I had to leave the park without taking a photo.

I spent the afternoon on my little terrace before going on my last walk with Flohr.

Just in time for dusk, Jimmy drove me to the Voimma Reserve. At 6pm I met Flohr for our last walk. We went into the Voimma Reserve and saw a small yellow frog right at the beginning. A little further up in the tree was a chameleon. I had finally found another one. But then it was time to search. Flohr told me that people hadn't seen anything on the night walk the day before. Fortunately, things went a little better for us. On the hour-long walk, we saw two more frogs, two small lemurs and a gecko. At the end, there was another chameleon at the exit.

I thanked Flohr and said goodbye to her. Jimmy drove me to my accommodation and I went to bed early.

Day 4 Chameleon Day

Today we had breakfast in the restaurant opposite, as Jimmy and the agency had already organised breakfast for me at 6 a.m. so that we could start earlier.

We then drove for about 15 minutes until we reached the entrance to the Maromizaha Reserve. Arsene, my guide for the four-hour tour, was already waiting there. He got into the car with us and we drove a little further up. When we arrived at the car park, the starting point of our tour, I could hardly believe my eyes. The view was gigantic. The fog was still hanging in the treetops.

As Arsne and I set off, Christoph, another guide, joined us. Two just for me, not bad either. And so it was: in the first 20 minutes we found a frog, two very small chameleons and a larger one. I was amazed at how they always spot these small, camouflaged animals.

After I had tried to photograph these animals, which was not so easy, we walked on and looked out for birds, more chameleons and geckos. But apart from hearing the birds and lemurs, we saw nothing. But I didn't mind, because we kept coming to beautiful viewpoints and I enjoyed the nature, the animal sounds and the views.

On the way back, we even left the paths to look for a larger, green chameleon. But the search was unsuccessful. Instead, I saw a "Forest Rock Thrush" and a "Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher".

After seven kilometres, we returned to the car park, where Jimmy was already waiting for me. I thanked the two boys and we set off on the four-hour journey back to "Tana".

We stopped at an "Exotic Park". Jimmy explained to me that the animals living here had been rescued from forest fires, among other things. And I could hardly believe my eyes. So many different chameleons in all sizes and colours. Too bad I didn't find them as "wildlife". Nevertheless, it was nice to photograph and marvel at one animal or another.

At the car park I saw it after all: a tree boa. So I got my longed-for snake picture after all.

In the late afternoon we reached Tana and the hotel "Le Chat'o Park Hotel" https://le-chato.com . I thanked Jimmy for the past few days and wished him good luck and success with his school, which he is setting up in his spare time! He had even invited me to the opening on 17 August, but I wouldn't be back in Tana until the evening. But I made a donation, because I think it's a great idea!

I enjoyed the evening in the hotel lounge and repacked my luggage a little, as I was travelling north to "Nosy Be" tomorrow.

Day 5 Off to paradise

Today I slept in, had a leisurely breakfast and was taken to the national airport in the late morning. There I joined the other people waiting to check in for the flight to Nosy Be. When it was my turn, they weighed my suitcase and unfortunately also my hand luggage. As only 20 kg was allowed for the suitcase and only 5 kg for the hand luggage, I had to pay extra. But I was lucky, instead of 7kg I only had to pay 3kg extra. So it was within reasonable limits.

We took off on time and flew over Madagascar. It was nice to see the country from above. There was even a little something to eat and drink on the one-hour flight.

After landing, we walked across the tarmac to the arrivals hall. I waited there for my luggage, which arrived with a slight delay, but not on the baggage carousel - you had to collect it at the door.

My driver, who I had booked through the diving school "Scuba Nosy Be" https://scubanosybe.com, was already waiting outside. The journey across the island took about 40 minutes. I was warmly welcomed at my accommodation "Nosy Lodge" https://nosylodge.com/en/. There was no proper check-in, but I was shown directly to my room and given the key. I unloaded everything, walked to the diving centre, which is right next door, and discussed everything else for the next few days. Once that was done, I ate a fresh fruit salad and enjoyed my welcome drink with a view of the sea.

At sunset, I took a walk along the beach before stopping off at the restaurant, which is also right on the beach, to round off my first evening here on Nosy Be.

Day 6 Birthday Diving

I enjoyed my birthday breakfast in peace and quiet with a view of the ocean.

I then arrived at the dive centre at eight o'clock on the dot. Here I was immediately assigned to one of the three boats and my private dive guide Noé. We introduced ourselves and hit it off straight away. He showed me my place and my equipment, which was already ready. What a service.

There were two other groups on board with me. We travelled about a quarter of an hour to the Tanikely National Park. The anchor was set here and I received my briefing for the first dive. We then got ready, carried out the buddy check and rolled backwards into the water.

We encountered a small sea turtle right at the start. The water temperature was a pleasant 27 degrees and visibility was unfortunately only 7-10 metres. Noé and I dived down to 22 metres. During the hour-long dive, I saw two nudibranchs, barracudas, two blue-spotted rays, lobsters and various fish. I was a little disappointed as I had hoped for a more colourful coral reef with more animals. But that's wildlife. Sometimes you're lucky, sometimes you're not.

Back on board, we travelled to the small island. We spent our break there before setting off on our second dive.

This time we went down to around 18 metres. Here we found a frogfish that I was able to photograph in peace. Noé also found another nudibranch, a shy reef shark and a moray eel. After just under 70 minutes, we made our way back up and of course made our juice stop again.

We were back in time for lunch. I spent the afternoon relaxing on the beach, reading all my birthday messages and talking to my family on the phone.

But I couldn't stay on my lounger for long, so I went for a walk along the beach again at sunset. I was able to take photos of some locals playing and going for a walk.

I was surprised for dinner. Moratravel had organised a little surprise for me. I thought that was great.

After dinner, I treated myself to a cocktail and enjoyed the peace and quiet on the beach.

Day 7 Diving day

My goal here on Nosy Be was to get the humpback whales in front of my lens, whether under or above water. That's why I had to dive again today!

We left the beach on time just before half past eight and headed out to sea.

We travelled for about 30 minutes until we reached the 'Share Point'. Noe said to me that with a lot of luck we might see hammerhead sharks and maybe even a humpback whale, as one was spotted here last week. Full of hope, we dived down to 26 metres. The visibility was clear, but there was a strong current. And although I had my own guide, there were six other dives with guides. I saw a turtle and three reef sharks of different sizes. But it wasn't enough for a photo as they were very shy and I couldn't get close enough to them. The hammerhead sharks and humpback whales didn't want to come in front of my lens either. It's a shame, but there's nothing you can do, I'll get lucky one day! After almost an hour, we surfaced again. The break was taken on the boat today. Luckily I had taken a tablet beforehand, so I didn't feel nauseous.

At the second dive site we were able to abseil down a little and dive alone, saw a corodile fish, two blue spotted rays and a nudibranch, but there was a strong current here too.

Noe told me that the humpback whale season had been pushed back a little, so I probably wouldn't see any more. Back on the beach, I asked the diving school about tomorrow's programme, which they had organised for me. Instead of a whale tour, I was now going to spend a whole day in the national park. I wrote down my 123. and 124. dives in my logbook and said goodbye. Then.

I collected my suitcase at the hotel, checked out and took the chug to the next accommodation https://www.hotelchezsenga.com, which was in a different bay. Checking in turned out to be a bit problematic as no one spoke English, only French, and I was given a room that I hadn't booked. After a lot of back and forth, I decided to stay anyway instead of returning to the other hotel.

At sunset, I got with a Tuktuk to take me to the Mont Passot viewpoint. I got this tip from Noe. It was also breathtakingly beautiful there, but unfortunately it was also very busy.

In the evening, I had a bite to eat, prepared my photo rucksack for tomorrow and fell into bed tired.

Day 8 Last day on Nosy be

I enjoyed the sunrise from my bed, as I could look straight out to sea and watch the fishermen go out.

I then got dressed and went for a walk along the beach before having breakfast.

Around half past eight I was picked up by John, my guide for the day. I had organised the tour in advance through the diving school.

We travelled south by tuktuk to the other side. John explained to me that the road that circles the island is about 17 kilometres long. There are also 600 tuktuks on this small island. On the way to the national park, I was able to admire the beautiful nature again.

After about 30 minutes, we arrived at a small fishing village. There we met another local guide, got into a traditional wooden boat and the two men paddled me across the sea to Lokobe National Park.

There, the two of them explained to me that John would stay here and prepare lunch. So just the other guide and I walked into the jungle. I saw two new species of lemur right at the start. They were really curious and came very close to us. A little further on, I spotted a snake in the grass. Of course, I couldn't get enough and took the time to photograph it. We then walked on and saw another small nocturnal lemur high up in a tree. He was awake and curious though. But then I spotted it: A boa was wriggling along on the right-hand side. But that wasn't all, because a little further on was a second huge boa, which I was able to photograph at close range. In the meantime, the guide searched for more animals and found a colourful frog and the smallest chameleon I have ever seen. I unpacked my macro lens and lay down on the ground to get some great perspectives.

After I had a few photos in the box, we moved on and found two more chameleons.

After around two hours, we arrived back at the exit. John was already waiting for me there with lunch and a marvellous view of the sea.

The two of them paddled me back along the mangrove forests, which was very fascinating. But there are no pictures of this as it was too delicate for me, as I was afraid that the camera might fall into the water.

I was back at my accommodation in the early afternoon and refreshed myself with a dip in the sea before strolling back to the beach at sunset to round off my last evening on Nosy Be.

Day 9 Chaos with Happy end

The night was short because the street dogs barked and howled all night. Despite this, I woke up without a good night's sleep to enjoy the sunrise, first from my terrace and then on a walk along the beach.

But there wasn't too much going on today, so I returned to my accommodation and had breakfast.

Afterwards, I tried to get some more sleep, but it didn't work out. I didn't jump into the sea either, as I was due to be picked up at midday.

However, a few children had noticed me and jumped up and down in front of my camera because they love having their picture taken.

Then the total chaos began at the airport. First I wasn't allowed to queue without giving a reason, even though my flight was already scheduled, and then the check-in didn't start. While I was waiting, I met Elisabeth and Janko from Germany, who were doing an internship in Tana and spending their free time on Nosy Be. We got chatting and it turned out that they also had a flight to Tana, but a different one. At check-in, however, there was a completely different number and time passed without us receiving any further information. At some point we asked, and then came the shock: my flight wasn't due to leave until after 8pm, more than 6 hours later than originally planned.

Not with me! I complained why I was not informed about this and that I would like to be rebooked on the other flight! At first they refused everything, pretended not to understand me, claimed the flight was full and sent me to the office with my boarding pass. There was a nice man from the airline who asked why I wanted to fly earlier. I explained to him that I had another flight very early tomorrow morning and had not received any information, otherwise I would like to get my money back. He said very calmly: 'sit down and wait'. I obeyed and gave him my boarding pass and my booked reservation. He disappeared and came back with a new boarding pass. I didn't have to pay for my extra kilos either.

So I was able to fly a little earlier but still three hours late and landed in Tana in the evening without any further incidents.

Despite all the chaos, my suitcase came with me, but the shuttle from the hotel wasn't there, so I asked Moratracel to take me a taxi. I received a friendly welcome at the hotel, had dinner, repacked and went to bed.

Tomorrow it's off to the west coast.

Day 10 - Off to the west coast

After a massive flight delay yesterday, I check in for today's flight. Officially, check-in was supposed to start at 7.25am and the flight was due to depart at 9.25am.

Milay from Moratravel picked me up at the hotel at 7am as agreed. When we arrived at the national airport, we looked a little confused because the display board said that the flight had been postponed to 12.20pm, i.e. it was due to depart 3 hours later. We asked, but again there was no explanation. So I had to wait and the office gave me an email address to which I could send my complaint. I also gave this address to the other travellers, as more complaints can have more effect and maybe we will get a refund. Miray waited with me, we chatted and had a coffee together.

When I arrived in Morondava, a driver met me and we set off straight away. At the start, I saw the beautiful, unique Madagascar baobab trees, but we didn't stop. I wanted to capture them on the way back at sunset. He drove really fast to make up some time. The road into the 'Kirindy Reserve' was like riding a rollercoaster. It wasn't a normal road. However, the nature was super beautiful, but I could hardly enjoy it. We had to stop every now and then so that I could pop a nausea tablet. After about an hour and a half's drive, we met Fleury and swapped cars, so Fleury continued on with me. As the afternoon walk in Kirindy was cancelled, we stopped at a neighbouring forest. Fleury had organised a short walk with a guide called Nova. And what I saw in half an hour was absolutely amazing. Various birds, lemurs, geckos and other animals - it was all there.

I then contacted Nambinia from Moratravel via WhatsApp about the change of plan in the west, as I wouldn't be able to start this afternoon's walk through the Kirindy Reserve due to the delay. But he spoke to Fluery, my driver and guide for the west, about how we could make the best of it despite everything. I have to say, all the staff are really helpful and there for you straight away.

At check-in, they wanted to charge me for my hand luggage and my extra kilos, but I refused on the grounds that I wasn't allowed to have the batteries in my suitcase and that I wouldn't accept a surcharge for a three-hour delay. They didn't discuss it any further and waved me through.

At the gate, I used the time to phone my parents and waited for boarding, which of course also started late.

With a good haul, we drove to the hotel, which is in the centre of the reserve. I checked in and went straight on to the night walk. Here I met my guide Tinova. But before we started, I was lucky enough to see the park's landmark, a fossa. What a lion is in South Africa or a tiger in India, the fossa is in Madagascar. And I got within a metre of it.

At dusk, we drove about ten minutes to another spot. There we set off equipped with a torch and camera. Fleury stayed by the car. During the two-hour walk, I saw all three nocturnal lemurs, two snakes, a spider, two geckos and another owl.

For a day that had started with chaos and delays, I was very satisfied, but also tired.

I had dinner, recharged my batteries and fell into bed exhausted.

Day 11 - Through the west

Before the sun had even risen, Fleury and I drove back to the Kirindy Reserve entrance. Tiranda was already waiting for me here so that we could start the early morning walk into the forest straight away. After a few minutes, the sky turned a beautiful dawn colour. I enjoyed the silence. It is very dry on the west coast in winter. There were no green, lush plants or trees. We also had to wait a long time before we spotted the first animals, but then we saw another family of common brown lemurs, a few birds and another lemur family, verreaux sifaka. Shortly before the end, I spotted a small red-tailed sportive lemur, which I had also seen last night.

I said goodbye to Tiranda and Fleury at the car park and had breakfast. We then set off on a very long journey in the direction of 'Tsingy de Bemaraha'. It wasn't a road worthy of the name, but rather an up and down, dusty and full of holes. There was nothing tarmac here on the 150 km stretch.

But the landscape became more and more beautiful, I saw rice fields, again some baobabs, but unfortunately also a lot of poverty in the small villages. After a good two hours' drive, we came to a river and Fleury said that we had to take the ferry straight away. I asked which one and he pointed to a boat, which looked very dodgy. But as I had already seen similar ferries on my travels, I trusted the Madagascans. And that was a good thing, because after about a quarter of an hour we reached the shore of Babu dry. There we stopped off at the 'Zebu' restaurant and took a break. I can really recommend this restaurant, it is clean, has good dishes and makes a good espresso.

Thus fortified, we set off on the long journey to Tsingy. But then it happened: after about an hour's drive, Fleury stopped. He had noticed something wrong with the car. He made a phone call and tried to fix it, but to no avail. But as luck would have it, a friend of Fleury's happened to pass by. They both explained to me that Fleury had to go back to Babu to get the car fixed, but that his mate would drive me to the hotel. I trusted both of them and got into the other car with my luggage. I chatted to the driver and it turned out that he was a singer in a band, so there was plenty of entertainment. We had to cross another river on a ferry, but arrived at our destination in time for sunset, which I enjoyed from my terrace.

Fleury got in touch later and reported that he had managed to solve the problem. He was already on his way and would pick me up tomorrow morning.

Day 12 Tsingy National Park

Breakfast this morning was a bit of a disappointment. Nevertheless, Fleury and my guide for the day, Richard, were at the meeting point on time at 7am. We drove to the small village of Bekopaka, which lies below the hotels, and bought some water and biscuits for the day. Then the bumpy 17 kilometre ride began, and today I was struggling with nausea again. On the way, I also taught them a few German words. After just over an hour's drive, we arrived at the Tsingy National Park car park. There were already quite a few cars parked here, including some from National Geographics. Richard organised climbing harnesses and then the hike began.

It was hot today, over 30 degrees in the morning. And my nausea wasn't getting any better, so we had to take breaks in the shade every now and then. Fortunately, the tablet worked after a while. Before we started climbing, we kept an eye out for animals, but this was unsuccessful, although Richard did manage to find a small common brown lemur.

There was a lot going on today, so we weren't alone and had to keep waiting as we climbed up the rocks. Once we reached our destination, I took in the beautiful, unique landscape. Photography was only possible to a limited extent here, as the midday sun was too strong and the light was too harsh. At the top, we climbed around a bit until we reached a suspension bridge. It was really tough, so we had to secure ourselves with the carabiners here too. It was wobbly, there were no planks and it was a steep descent. So not for people who are afraid of heights or prone to vertigo.

Once we reached the other side, there was another viewpoint. However, the lemurs didn't want to show themselves, probably because it was simply too hot. Then the descent began. When we got to the bottom, we had to crawl on our knees through small caves/holes to get any further. When we reached the end, I wasn't feeling well at all. My stomach went crazy again until I had to throw up. It was probably yesterday's dinner - vegetables with rice, because another climber had similar symptoms and had eaten the same thing and the vegetables hadn't been cooked thoroughly.

After I had recovered a bit, we walked back to the car park where Fleury was waiting for us. Even though the landscape and the national park are impressive, I was a little disappointed as I would have liked an earlier start with fewer people and better light for photos. I slept through the journey back and Richard offered to take me on a night walk in the evening. I agreed and said goodbye to him.

At the hotel, I quickly crawled back to my room to get some rest and communicate with my contacts at Moratravel, as I didn't want to eat at the hotel after my stomach had been so upset. When I wanted to meet up with Richard at 6 pm, everything turned out differently again, because I couldn't start the tour without something in my stomach, I felt too weak, but it was quite a while before I got food in another hotel, so the walk didn't take place.

However, Moratravel reorganised the tour for me for the rest of the week, so I will get more photo opportunities. I give them credit for that! That's what characterises a good agency, always being in contact and getting the best out of things, even when things aren't going so well. Tired, exhausted and a little disappointed, but ultimately happy with the new plan, I fell into bed. Tomorrow I'm going back to Morodava and the Baobaallee.

Day 13 Street life, landscapes, wild animals and sunset

The night was quiet and I felt fine again.

Fleury was already waiting for me at 6.30 am, as we had a long drive and a tight programme ahead of us today.

We had to wait a few minutes in front of the first harbour, below the hotel, to get a place on the next ferry. I took advantage of this and photographed the children there, who had a lot of fun again.

On the other side, he really stepped on the gas and we made rapid progress.

We then took a short break in a small village as Fleury noticed something wrong with the car again, had a look and repaired it. We then drove straight on to Babu to pick up my packed lunch at the Zebu restaurant.

When we arrived at the harbour, we were the first and Fleury didn't want to wait for any more cars, so we had a whole ferry to ourselves and enjoyed the 15-minute trip across the river.

We continued towards the Kirindy Reserve. Fleury had the idea that if we made good time, we would stop off at Nova's again so that I could have another chance to look out for animals. And we made great progress, so I went on a one-hour tour with Nova and Fleury rested in the meantime. I saw a whole family of Verreaux sifaka that came relatively close, then a very well camouflaged chameleon, a gecko and two small, curious mouse lemurs.

Quite satisfied, we then set off on the last stage. The aim was to reach the baobab avenue before sunset. And we were, so I was able to take photos in peace before everyone else arrived!

Later, I also met Leila and Roberto from Italy. I had met them on yesterday's climbing tour. I also met the five women from the United Arab Emirates that I had met on the first ferry trip. I chatted to them and we all took photos of the sunset.

Fleury then drove me to the hotel.

I had dinner there, repacked and secured my photos.

14. off to the northern highlands

Today it was time to say goodbye to the west. Fleury picked me up at the hotel and drove me to the airport. There I said goodbye to him and met up again with the group of women from the United Arab Emirates. I spent the time with them until check-in and boarding, playing rummy and chatting.

The flight went by very quickly and was on time this time. Jimmy was already waiting for me in Tana. We bought some fruit and water and then we were off.

We drove north of Tana into the highlands, to the area where he grew up. It had only rained here for the past ten days. As a result, the roads were very muddy, slippery and not easy to drive on. But today we were lucky - the sun was shining. We drove past rice fields, mountains and beautiful views. Another completely different area to what I have experienced so far. It's also relatively cool up here.

After about four and a half hours, we arrived at our destination. Two porters were already waiting for me at the car park. We walked another 400 metres into the forest, with no accommodation for miles around, until I reached the lodge https://www.akiba-lodge.mg over a bridge. I received a very friendly welcome here. It is very modern and there is even working Wi-Fi in the middle of nowhere in Madagascar. Jimmy translated everything about the tours, times and food, as only French and Malagasy are spoken here. Afterwards, Jimmy said goodbye to me and I got my things ready for the night walk.

But before we set off, we had a warm dinner.

Afterwards, Ivosoa and Valiso picked up my Guides and we set off equipped with torches and cameras. We saw two different chameleons right at the start. I came across these two species again and again. But then, finally, my eyes also spotted a frog. A little further on, even a butterfly. As it had rained a lot the previous nights, it was quite slippery and we had to be careful when climbing over sticks and stones. We looked straight out and there was an owl sitting there, watching us curiously for a little longer so that I could photograph it in peace. I'm slowly getting into the habit of taking photos at night. On the way back to the lodge, I found it: my first chameleon at night, and a big one at that.

The lemurs were hiding, but I was very pleased. Tomorrow morning I'm going on one last wildlife walk. Let's see what I discover in the nature reserve.

Day 15 In the middle of it all

Ivosoa and Valiso were waiting for me straight after breakfast. One last nature walk was on the agenda before I returned to the people and Saturday back to Germany.

The two of them were keen to show me the rare lemurs. We climbed up, then down again, over hill and dale. Then Ivosoa and Valiso split up and followed the lemurs' calls. But it just wasn't meant to be today. We didn't even find any other animals. But that was fine with me. This is nature, this is wildlife and I was really lucky with how much wildlife I had seen in the past two and a half weeks.

Jimmy was already waiting at the car park. But then it happened. I twisted my ankle on a bump. I knew immediately that it was my ligaments again. As I always have my splint in my suitcase as a precaution, I put it on straight away, swallowed a painkiller and took a seat in the passenger seat.

After about an hour and a half, Jimmy left the main road and we turned right. This was no longer a road, but another track that took some getting used to. In Germany, we wouldn't even drive on a road like this. But here in Madagascar, everything is different. He stopped after about three kilometres. Because there it was. The school he had built. He told me that it was his dream to build a school and that he had saved his whole life for it. I think that's great. His wife greeted me and they both showed me the school grounds, which consist of a playground, a covered eating area, a separate toilet, a small office and the main building with two rooms.

I thought it was great what he and his friends have created over the last 17 months. The first children will be going to school here from September.

We then drove another two kilometres or so to his home village. Here I received a friendly welcome from almost all the inhabitants. Jimmy's son showed me around the small village and his daughter accompanied me to the children, who scrutinised me curiously, sometimes a little anxiously and shyly, but who also allowed me to take photos.

Then Jimmy came and said that lunch was ready, showed me into his house and I was allowed to sit down with his whole family including his aunt, nephews, nieces and others. So I was able to immerse myself in the life of the Madagascans, see how they live, cook and celebrate.