Maldives - The land of atolls 08/2022

Foreword

Most divers already know it. Another popular diving paradise is located southwest of Sri Lanka in the Indian Ocean: the Maldives.

White powdered sugar sand on the beach, endless views of the sea, palm trees that seem to reach into the water and turquoise water as far as the eye can see. Is this how you imagine the Maldives?

Well over a thousand Maldivian islands are spread out in the warm Indian Ocean. However, only about 200 of the islands are inhabited by the locals. The inhabitants of the Maldives speak "Dhivehi", also called "Maldivian", a language that belongs to the Indo-Germanic language family. However, English is mostly spoken in the resorts. I will take a closer look at at least a part of the Islamic island nation. The islands are spread over almost 26 atolls. My destination is in the "Ari Atoll", which lies approximately in the center of the island state, southwest of the main island Malé.

Many spend their honeymoon there. When I get on the plane again next week, I have a completely different goal: various dates with whale sharks, manta rays, turtles and sharks.

Be excited when it's "The next diving adventure begins again."

Arrival

Quite comfortably I made myself around noon on the airport. As usual, I took the S-Bahn and looked for the check-in counter.

Arrived there, I was startled. Because already four hours before departure, a huge queue of people had accumulated there. Although I had already checked in online, I also had to queue there to check in my luggage. An employee of Qatar Airways asked each individual for itinerary, vaccination certificate, entry forms. When she asked me everything, I had to pass on the entry form. I had actually forgotten that. But it didn't matter, because I was able to catch up on my cell phone while waiting in line. After a good hour and a half, I felt like I wasn't getting anywhere. People feel like they want to travel with their entire household. Kilo heavy, bulky boxes, in addition quite a few suitcases. When I finally made it to the front after a good two and a half hours, I politely asked if I could get better seats. On the first flight to Doha nothing was possible, the flight was completely booked, but on the second to Malè it worked. And so I got one with more legroom and window seat. The security check was also no problem and so I arrived at my gate three quarters of an hour before boarding. And that, although I was at the airport more than four hours earlier this time. You can already tell that the ground staff is overworked and it's school vacations. I sat down on one of the free seats and made some phone calls. Then suddenly an Asian woman spoke to me. She had heard that I was planning to travel to Indonesia at the end of the year. When she told me that she was from Jakarta and was also on her way there, we got to talking really quickly and got along well.

And as luck would have it, we even sat next to each other on the plane. Ipah, as she is called, gave me helpful tips that I will certainly consider in my planning.

The plane took off with a delay of almost 30 minutes.

With Qatar, you can specify online in advance what you would like to eat and it was actually taken into account. When dinner was served, I got an Asian vegetarian meal. It tasted good and for dessert Ipah and I treated ourselves to a Bailey on Ice. Afterwards, I took a little nap before we headed back for landing.

Normally I had according to the flight schedule, an hour and fifty minutes stay in Doha, but due to the delay and that the shuttle bus with us passengers haphazardly drove through the airport, I had only 20 minutes. And knowing that the airport was big, I got a little queasy. With some running, it worked out just fine and so I spent the night high above the clouds.

When I looked out the window after another nap and we were just about to land, I couldn't get out of my amazement. The Maldives really look like on the postcards - at least from above.

Passport control went smoothly and at the baggage carousel I was anxious that my suitcase, despite current flight chaos around the world, had made it to the island with me. After minutes of waiting, I saw him and was happy.

Outside my guesthouse shuttle from the "Scuba Inn" https://www.scubainn.mv was already waiting. He took me to the harbor and at 9:30 we left.

The boat ride did not pass at all. Because except for the ocean, there was nothing to see for a long time, until we reached the first island after one and a half hours. When the second island with the name "Omadhoo" was approached, the boss, Ali, of "Scuba Inn" was already waiting for me and received me friendly. We walked about 200 meters to the accommodation. There I was welcomed with a fresh drinking coconut and everything was explained to me. It turned out that I am the only guest today and only tomorrow two more will join.

After completing all the formalities and choosing my lunch, I went to my room and needed to sleep first. After more than 19 hours on my feet, I was dog-tired. However, after a good hour, I was awakened by the singing of those praying.

After lunch, I walked around the small island, which has barely 1,000 inhabitants, a small school and a small supermarket.

On the walk I saw two flying foxes and after a good 40 minutes I had explored the island on foot. Omadhoo is very small and totally local. Playing children, women with headscarves and a few others in their self-made swings or hammocks. I did not find a hotel or resort, only other small guesthouses.

Before dinner Ibrahim, who works at the Scuba Inn, showed me three nice places. A jetty from where you can marvel at sharks, a section of beach where rays and sharks gather in the evening and a beautiful place for a sunset.

After dinner my dive guide Arif came by and we did all the formalities. Afterwards he explained to me which two dive spots we will visit tomorrow. I also told him my wishes. Let's see what can be realized.

The evening or night walk I made again to the jetty and indeed: I saw four sharks. Tomorrow morning I will ask which ones they were. My guess is "Nurses Sharks".

The cameras are loaded and tested. Tomorrow it's finally time to go under water again.

Ibrahim was already waiting for me in the restaurant when I arrived for breakfast shortly before half past seven. It feels like he works 24 hours. The selection is not exactly large, but it is enough to get full. But when I asked for coffee, he said there is none, the store opens only at eight o'clock.

After breakfast, I packed my dive gear and then had a coffee on my terrace before Arif picked me up on time.

Just around the corner is the dive center. I got a jacket and a regulator, weights and fins. Everything together two other employees brought to the harbor, while Alif and I went there. Appi was already waiting for us. He steered the small boat.

We drove about five minutes north to the first dive spot "Dhigu thila". We got ready and with a roll backwards we went into the water. We dived down to 23.3 meters at a pleasant 28 degrees. At the very beginning I saw a small white tip reef shark but since the visibility was only about 10 meters, neither a video nor a photo was possible. On the dive I also saw two different "Nudri branches", a lobster and some anemone fish. After 58 minutes we resurfaced and headed back to the island. I didn't have to worry about anything and could spend my three quarters of an hour break in my accommodation.

After all three of us had gathered back at the boat, we headed north again, but this time a little further to the dive spot "Omadhoo thila".

Already during the descent I noticed that it is a drift dive, and it really had it in itself. From time to time I even had to hold on to Arif so that I wasn't carried away. Also, even though it was attached to a string, my diffuser, which is used for the flash among other things to soften hard edges below and for less reflections, came loose. This totally annoyed me because finally everything was working and then this. But I hope that I can take good photos without diffuser on my further dives. In a cave, at 27 meters we found a white tip reef shark of almost two meters. But I didn't dare to get close enough and took a photo from a safe distance. A little further on we met two eagle rays. But also here no photo was possible, because they were moving too fast and I had to concentrate on the current. We saw a few moray eels peeking out through small cracks. When I only had 50 bar left we made our way up and at 5 meters we put in the three minute "juicey stop".

Arriving at the dive center I didn't have to take care of anything, so I only cleaned my wetsuit and my cameras from the salt water and then went to my room. I also showered off the salt water myself. Ibrahim was already waiting for me, because lunch was already ready. Wonderful when you just sit down at the table and get the food made.

I spent the afternoon on the beach and snorkeling. Although everyone said that there is a good reef on the east side where you can snorkel, I found it rather boring and unattractive. Hardly any fish and colorful corals, but crystal clear water.

In the early evening I strolled through the small alleys and then returned to the jetty. There I could see a large black stingray gliding through the shallow water. A mother and her son were sitting at the end of the jetty fishing. For the sunset I looked for a nice spot.

When I came back, dinner was already on the table. There was a delicious, fresh coconut pumpkin cream soup with salad and a delicious chocolate mouse for dessert.

Before I said goodbye, I clarified with Arif tomorrow's diving day, and asked Ali, the boss of "Scuba inn", what the trip to a certain snorkel spot with many nurse sharks would cost. I had seen that one on their Instagram page. However, when he told me it cost $1,100, my jaw almost dropped. Ok, you drive 90 minutes there, need a "private boat" but still I thought it was overpriced so I turned it down even though I was so looking forward to it. Well, you can't have everything.

Tomorrow it is called again: Dive

2. day - My Birthday

Like the day before, the meeting point was at 8:30 am at the diving school. However, I was not the only guest today. Because Joel and Loreana from Barcelona, who had arrived last night, had also booked dives.

We got a briefing from Arif and then we were off. We drove about 15 minutes until we came to the first dive spot "Lucky point". After I did the buddy check with Appi we both dove down to about 15 meters.

And I didn't have to wait three minutes when he came: The manta ray. He came directly to me and turned only shortly before me. What a moment. Joel and Lorena were diving with Arif today. They missed the first moment. But not long and there came a second manta ray. He too glided through the Indian Ocean seemingly weightless. After a good 51 minutes we surfaced again. Yes, the "Lucky point" has rightly its name.

On the way back to the island we were accompanied by two larger groups of dolphins. As if they had known that today is my birthday.

During my break, I read my first birthday wishes and rested a bit.

At 12 o'clock we met again at the harbor and drove another three minutes to the second dive spot "Kudadhoo corner". Here it should actually teem with octopuses, rays, sharks and turtles. Appi and I dived down to 27 meters, but except for a Nudri Branch and a new fish species (Fire Goby), which I did not know before, we saw nothing. The others were even less lucky. Somewhat disappointed, we headed back to the island. I asked if it was possible to get a spontaneous "night dive" tonight and Arif agreed.

After lunch I met up with Joel and Loreana and we went snorkeling together and took some nice beach pictures. Around 16:30 I said goodbye, because I wanted to rest a bit before I set off for my third "night dive".

I had a coffee on my little terrace, checked the camera, and just in time for the sunset gag, I was picked up. As we took the boat out to get to House Reef on the other side, there was a perfect sunset on the horizon. Abbi checked the current and visibility first and when he gave the green light, I rolled backwards into the water with him. Lights on, camera on and off we went. At first I was really scared and held on to his arm. But little by little it got better. Right at the beginning I saw an octopus, but then ... a two meter big nurse shark. Even though they are not dangerous, but rather shy, I did not dare to take a picture. My respect was too big. But I didn't have to wait long with taking pictures, because there was something new to admire at every coral. Lionfishes that showed themselves in their colorfulness, different sized lobsters, a big sleeping Napoleonfish, a snake, and then finally a sea turtle. She sat peacefully under a coral ledge and watched us curiously. After three quarters of an hour I had enough and we resurfaced. I was totally happy and immediately announced that I wanted to do a second night dive this week.

Back at the Gusthouse I was then surprised by the whole team (only men). They had prepared a birthday table and a cake. They sang "Happy Birthday", celebrated with me (even without alcohol, because it is forbidden here on the island) and I reviewed the perfect birthday.

I will certainly not forget this day! THANK YOU to https://www.scubainn.mv and https://www.facebook.com/driftdiversomadhoo/ for the perfect birthday!

3. day Diving day

Also today diving was on the program. Punctually at 8:45 am we left the harbor and headed out into the open ocean.

After about half an hour we arrived at our first dive spot "Fish head". At the briefing we were told that there should be different reef sharks here.

And so it happened, Appi and I got a visit directly on the descent and it went on the whole dive. Sometimes a whitetip reef shark, then a blacktip reef shark. Unfortunately, the water was a bit murky, so I focused more on videos instead of photos. I also kept a slightly larger distance with the sharks. You never know.

On this dive we reached a depth of just under 24 meters. Besides the sharks, I saw three peaceful turtles that were either eating or gliding through water. They were not afraid and I was able to take photos as well as videos. After a good three quarters of an hour it was over and we resurfaced with a "safty stop".

We spent the break on a lonely little sandbank in the middle of the Indian Ocean. A dream. It was really good to stay here.

The second dive site named "Aliko Girri" was just about five minutes away. Appi and I dove down first again and right at the beginning I saw a jellyfish. So beautiful, maybe dangerous? Unfortunately I don't know. The visibility was a little better, but clear visibility is something else. On our way we crossed again a small whitetip reef shark. Otherwise there was not much to see except two lionfish and a few bigger schools of fish. Also this time it was over after 50 minutes.

Back at the guesthouse Ibrahim was already waiting with lunch.

I spent the afternoon today in my room and on the terrace, before I strolled around the island again shortly before sunset and enjoyed the sunset at the ray hotspot.

In the evening I clarified with Arif my next dives and with Ibrahim I arranged for tomorrow morning. Because we go to the local school.

4. day School and wahle shark

After a cup of coffee, it was time for me to go to school. The director received Ibrahim and me punctually at 7:15 am. She told me that there are 10 classes and the children go to school from 6-16 years. Upon request, I was also allowed to take pictures, at first only from the outside, but the teachers and the director also gave me permission to go inside the classes. The little ones found this really exciting. I took some photos and listened to the children in class.

All children have a school uniform and from a certain age the girls also wear headscarves. In sports, the boys play soccer and the girls handball. School always starts at 7 am and goes until 11 am. Around 9:30 a.m. there is a 15-minute break. They have breakfast together.

After a good three quarters of an hour we said goodbye and I thanked for the small guided tour and for the permission to take photos.

At three quarters of nine we went back to the harbor. Appi and Adam were already waiting for me. Today we went to the south of the "Ari Atoll", because there should be whale sharks. Normally they don't drive 50 minutes to a trip for one person, but for me they made an exception.

So I enjoyed the ride over the open ocean. Finally arrived, there was already by radio the first information that a whale shark had been sighted. Adam stepped on the gas and a short time later we reached the spot where other boats had already gathered. But there was no more whale shark to see. Then it was time to snorkel first. I got ready and when I was ready to go, there was a change of plan, dive first, because the probability to see the whale shark there was higher. So into the wetsuit, jacket on, buddy check and off into the water. And the two were right. When I was with Appi on about ten meters, I saw the tail fin of a whale shark. We both really stepped on the gas and got closer to the gigantic giant. How he glided through the depths of the ocean. A dream. I filmed almost the whole time, at times I also tried to take photos but a video was just more important to me at that moment. As he descended deeper and deeper, we had to let him go from a depth of 36.4 meters. I was still so happy, because besides Appi and me there were no other divers, snorkelers or anyone else. I could enjoy this unique moment in peace. Very slowly we made our way up along the reef. From far away I saw a small whitetip reef shark and at a good 15 meters a turtle. I could just watch these animals all day. They are so beautiful and friendly. After a good 37 minutes, which was due to the depth and the fast diving, we arrived happily at the top again after the "Safty stop".

The boys were happy to see me so happy and so we drove back to Omadhoo. A small stopover at another small sandbank was not to be missed today.

Back at the accommodation Arif, the boss of the house and Ibrahim were already waiting for me. I told with full enthusiasm about the dive and then took my lunch.

Afterwards I relaxed a bit in the lounge and looked at the photos and videos. Unfortunately, I noticed that the school photos did not turn out as well as I had hoped (shadows, dark, partly blurred...). Ibrahim said that we could go again tomorrow. After consulting with Arif, who plans the dives, I agreed with Ibrahim.

Joel and Loreana left this morning. Instead a couple from Bahrain came in the afternoon. They are dive guides themselves and are looking for some locations for their dive school. She speaks German, he only English and Arabic. After a little small talk I made my way to the beach to do some snorkeling at the house reef. But except for a few fish and a feather-tailed stingray I saw nothing.

In the evening, as on the other days, I walked across the island to the jetty at the ray place and enjoyed again the beautiful sunset gag. There I met another family from Germany and also Ali and Selma, the couple from my Gusthouse. Together we walked back and had dinner.

5. day- School and "Diving the second"

After consultation, I was allowed to stop by the school again briefly this morning. In the 1st class there was just music lessons, in 2nd grade reading was on the schedule and in the 5th grade mathematics. The little ones were happy and I could photograph from different angles from and in the classrooms at the classes 1-6.

Afterwards, I discussed with the director that I would send them the photos as soon as I had edited them and thanked them for visiting again.

At breakfast I met Ali and Selma. After refreshments, we got ready and walked together to the port, where App and Adam were already waiting for us.

First dive spot was again the "Lucky Point". When we arrived there, however, there were so many dive boats as I had never seen before. Mantas were also not yet sighted and so we decided together to head for another dive spot nearby for the time being. Ali and Selma are diving instructors themselves and run a diving school in Bahrain. So today I had the luxury to dive with three divemasters. Ali himself is also an underwater photographer and has a big and professional equipment. There I can pack with my small Olympus including flash. Arrived at the alternative dive spot "Dhiggaru corner", we got ready and rolled into the water one after the other. Here there should be different reef sharks. And so it was. We saw two whitetip reef sharks, unfortunately again too far away. In addition we found a few "Nudi Branches". More was not to be seen. Unfortunately the visibility was only about 10 meters, so we surfaced again after 47 minutes.

The break took place today on the small boat. Fortunately, I had taken my travel tablet in advance. So I did not get sick and I could enjoy the break in the sun or on the boat.

After a good three quarters of an hour break we wanted to try our luck at the "Lucky Point". But except tens of other divers, who waited down at the seabed at 15 meters for the manta rays, we saw nothing. This time the name was not right. It's a pity, but that's the "wildlife". And you can't always be lucky.

After lunch I rested a bit and took a little nap. In the afternoon I walked again through the small streets and relaxed a little on the beach.

At sunset I met Arif at the harbor, because today I had another "night dive" at the house reef. The trip there was beautiful again. The sky was changing color and the sun was slowly setting.

Once there, it was a roll backwards back into the water and down to a depth of almost ten meters. The first five minutes I held on to Arif, then my fear disappeared and I dove freely. We saw another small whitetip reef shark right at the beginning. But also lionfish, lobsters coming out of their caves and other fish. But what fascinated me most today were the anemones in their different colors. At night the colors really come into their own. Along the reef we were met by a two meter long nurse shark and another, bigger whitetip reef shark. But my fear remained. After 52 minutes we surfaced again and went back to the harbor.

Ibrahim was already waiting with dinner. Today we had something special from the chef: yellow curry with rice and salad.

I spent the rest of the evening in the lounge with Ali and Selma. Arif also came by briefly. I enjoyed not having to spend the evening alone.

6. day - Last lucky diving day

Punctually at 8:45 a.m., the five of us left Omadhoo harbor with the goal of seeing whale sharks again.

We went to the south of Ari Atoll, 50 minutes by speedboat. Once there, we were just about to get ready for diving, when we were told "jumpin jumpin, now snorkling, there is a whaleshark". Since I already had my fins on and my goggles cleaned and on, I grabbed my snorkel and both cameras and jumped into the water. And there he was: the same whale shark as last time. After a few minutes he disappeared in the depth and we climbed back into the boat.

But after a short break we were already ready to dive. It was a so-called "deep dive", down to 29.1m. We saw several white and black tip reef sharks and many different fish. Unfortunately not more. On the way down Ali took some nice pictures of me with his camera and after 52 minutes we reached the surface again after the "Safty stop".

Today we spent the break between the first and second dive on the boat and meanwhile we went to the second dive spot, a wreck called "Kufhiman Wreck". There was another big dive boat anchored there, with Appi's best buddy on it. They invited us for a coffee and a small snack. In addition there was music.

After a little over an hour break, it was time again. We dived down after a short briefing by Appi. It was not a good visibility, but we could recognize the wreck at almost 29 meters. After we found nothing special inside as well as outside, we dived along the outside of the shipwreck. And then suddenly, we saw two huge nurse sharks lying on the seabed in front of a window hole of the wreck. They were calm and we could get really close to take pictures and film.

Since the second dive was also a "deep dive", we resurfaced after just under 42 minutes. At the "Safty stop" we met a bigger swarm of barracudas.

The ride back to the island flew by. We were all exhausted and a bit tired. When we arrived back at the guesthouse, they did not have to ask at all, they saw it on our happy faces that we had successful dives. The boss even said: I would have been the first diver of you who had so much luck, 2x whale shark and 1x manta ray. Apparently this happens as good as never.

Ibrahim was already waiting with lunch and the afternoon I relaxed on my terrace. Because tonight it goes to my last dive here on the Maldives. For this I want to be fit and rested.

Around 5 pm I took my standard walk around the island. And more and more people, especially children come up to me to be photographed. They are quite excited when I show them the photos afterwards. A complete family also asked today.

At 18:30 I met Appi and Adam at the harbor for the last dive. When we left the harbor I saw a small eagle ray and the sun setting on the horizon.

Arriving at the jetty, Appi first checked the current. Then there was the body check and then we dove down into the dark ocean. I quickly noticed that the current was a little stronger today and therefore we dived faster past everything. Appi was looking for sharks on the left and below, I was looking for small animals on the right. Unfortunately he didn't really understand today that I wanted to look for small animals and beautiful corals to photograph. However, I found a nice crab, a small lobster, a moray eel but it hid from us and it was actually teeming with sharks again. Also the two meter big nurse shark. He circled around under and above us again and again. I wasn't completely comfortable with it, so I couldn't photograph it properly and therefore I concentrated more on diving. Shortly before the end I saw a cuttlefish. After three quarters of an hour my last of 16 dives here in the Maldives had come to an end.

Now there are 91 dives in my second logbook.

The evening ended comfortably in the lounge with Selma and Ali.

7. day Last Day in Paradise

I took my last day slowly. I had breakfast with Selma and Ali and then took them to the harbor. It was a strange feeling not to go on the boat and dive today, but I wished them both good luck.

I used the free morning and walked through the small streets of Omadhoo. I found several small lizards climbing the tree or hiding in bushes. And there were great streetlife motifs again. Some residents even waved me over to take their picture. Probably word had already spread and it was a highlight for them to have a photographer on the island.

Around noon I slowly started to pack up my stuff and met Selma and Ali again for lunch. They told me that the visibility was better today and they saw a lot.

In the afternoon I took advantage of the good weather and went to the beach again for sunbathing and snorkeling. I found a stingray in the shallow water and some small colorful fish.

At 16:45 we all met and walked to the handball court. Today there was a women's handball match, which Ibrahim whistled for. Ali, who had played handball himself in the past, supported him. I was allowed to take photos, which I will make available to the island.

It was a great game to be able to witness such a local event live.

Just in time for sunset the game was over and Selma, Ali and I walked to the ray beach. Actually, I wanted to take great pictures here again, but the sea was not calm, the sand was stirred up, so we hardly saw the rays. Therefore, we decided to enjoy and photograph the sunset from the jetty. Here we saw for it up to six nurse sharks and a larger ray.

When we returned to the guesthouse, dinner was already ready and we all enjoyed the evening together.

Tomorrow at noon, unfortunately, it is time to say goodbye.

Departure Day

I spent the morning today again with a small walk across the island and swam a round in the sea.

There I also met local families. The children were playing on the beach and the women were fishing.The children had such a joy that they kept coming towards me and shouting "Photo, Photo". Afterwards, they wanted to look at my camera right away.

After lunch, Selma and the boss accompanied me to the harbor.

I said goodbye and thanked him, promised to come back and was then driven by Adam and his buddy to the other neighboring island. From there, the speedboat took me to Male and the airport.

After a good hour and a half we reached our destination. Check-in also went smoothly and so we took off on time.

I was glad to have landed on a small, local island to not only dive, but also to experience life there.

And one thing is for sure. I will be back!